Last weekend we had some commitments near Durban (wedding), and we decided a while back that we would return via the fabled Sani Pass through Lesotho. Once the wedding was done, we would travel from Eston through Howick and on to Underberg and then Himeville. We booked the night at St James Lodge in Lesotho, a mere 70km from Himeville in Kzn.
This 70km was something to behold…the 50km from the top of Sani Pass to the lodge took us the better part of 2.5hrs to drive. Yes the roads were that bad. The pass itself was not nearly as bad as we thought, and with some careful driving we had no problems but in Lesotho itself at some stage I could smell the heat of the oil in the transfer case as it worked overtime trying to send power to the correct wheels.
Once we got to the lodge, the pictures vs what actually greeted us were a bit different. Not quite the tranquil setting, with the local village supporting a soccer match. Luckily as the sun set it quietened down and we could enjoy the evening making a potjie and drinking some Old Brown Sherry.
The next morning we were up, packing and getting ready for some more nasty roads ahead. We were headed to the town of Butha-Buthe and the Caledonspoort border post. The route map we had told us it would take about 2.5hrs but the local caretaker of the lodge said more like 4 hours. With this in mind we set off for the border, road bumping and shaking us around in the Pajero.
We stopped at the diamond mine to look at the vast scale of the operation, and moved on to the highest mountain pass in Southern Africa, the Mahlasela Pass. From there the road got marginally better and eventually we got to the Moteng Pass. This magnificent piece of road needs to be experienced in a sports car, not a lumbering 4×4 with mud-terrain tyres loaded to the brim. We dropped down the pass from a altitude of 2800m down to 1700m and words can’t describe absolute beauty of it.
Once in Butha-Buthe we turned to the Caledon’s Poort border post, where within a few minutes we were through on both sides. From there it was off to Fouriesberg for petrol, food, and then the long trip home. Once its tank was full again, the Pajero was happy to run home, with the family asleep and Bruce Springsteen on the radio, with only the beat of the V6 as additional music in the background to keep me occupied.
It was a short visit to Lesotho. The trip showed me the beauty and isolation of this isolated country. The people who live in abject poverty, getting by with subsistence farming. Friendly people, most of them smiling and waving as you drive by with only two or three instances of begging encountered in our stay. I just wish we could have made the trip a few days longer, since I would have loved to visit Katse dam and some other areas. That said, it’s a beautiful country and I would encourage anyone to see it should the opportunity arise…










